A person answers, 7am to 11pm

Garage doors across 32 Dallas Fort Worth cities

(469) 281-7750

What we work on

Garage door opener repair and installation

An opener that runs without moving the door, or sends it back up on the way down, is usually a stripped gear, a disconnected trolley or a photo eye out of alignment rather than a dead motor.

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What garage door opener repair and installation actually involves

An opener that clicks and does nothing, runs without moving the door, or reverses on its own is usually fixable. An opener from before 1993 with no photo eye sensors is not something we recommend keeping, whatever else is wrong with it.

The most common opener repairs are stripped drive gears, failed logic boards, misaligned safety sensors and travel limits that have drifted out of adjustment. Any of those can be addressed. The decision to replace instead comes down to age, parts availability and safety features. Modern belt-drive and wall-mount openers are dramatically quieter than the chain drives they replace, which matters when there is a bedroom over the garage, and current models include battery backup so a power outage does not trap a car inside.

Signs you are dealing with this

  • The opener motor runs but the door stays put
  • The door closes partway then reverses back open
  • The remote works sometimes, or only from very close
  • The wall button works but the remotes do not
  • A grinding noise from the motor housing

What we check on arrival

  • Drive gear and sprocket condition inside the motor housing
  • Photo eye alignment, wiring and indicator lights
  • Travel limit and force settings against the actual door
  • Remote and keypad programming, and rolling code security
  • Whether the door itself is balanced, since an unbalanced door kills openers

How it goes

How a visit runs

Four steps, in this order, every time.

  1. 01

    We separate door problems from opener problems

    Pull the release cord and work the door by hand. If the door is hard to move, the opener is a victim rather than the cause, and we start there.

  2. 02

    Diagnose the unit

    Gear, board, sensor or setting. We check each in order and tell you which one it is, along with whether parts are still available for that model.

  3. 03

    Repair or replace, your call

    If a repair makes sense we do it. If the unit is old enough that the repair is a stopgap, we say so and give you the replacement price so you can choose.

  4. 04

    Program and hand it back

    Remotes, keypad, vehicle buttons and any app pairing get set up before we leave, and we test the safety reverse with you watching.

Typical range

$175 to $700

A sensor alignment or limit adjustment is at the bottom of the range. A new belt-drive or wall-mount opener installed is at the top.

This is a range, not a quote. The exact price comes after we see the door and you approve it before any work starts. Call (469) 281-7750 and describe what it is doing.

Before we get there

Never disable or bypass the photo eyes to make a door close. They are federally required entrapment protection, and a door that will not close is telling you something is wrong.

What people get wrong about this

The opener is broken, because the door will not go up.

A garage door opener is a half to three quarter horsepower motor. It is built to guide a door that the springs are already holding almost weightless, not to lift one. A double door weighs somewhere between 150 and 250 pounds. When a torsion spring breaks, that whole weight lands on a motor that was never sized for it, so the opener strains, clicks or does nothing at all. The opener is usually the symptom. The spring is usually the fault.

What to do: Pull the release cord only if the door is already fully closed, then try lifting by hand. If it will not move or feels like dead weight, it is the spring.

The door is getting loud, so the opener must be wearing out.

Noise almost always comes from the parts that roll and pivot, not from the motor. Steel rollers with worn bearings rumble. Dry hinges squeak. Loose track bolts rattle and the sound carries through the wall into whatever room sits above or beside the garage. A door that has become gradually louder over a year or two is describing worn hardware, and hardware is far cheaper than a motor.

What to do: Look at the rollers. If the wheels are steel and the bearings are visible and dry, that is your noise. Nylon rollers and a proper lubrication are usually the whole fix.

The door starts down and then goes back up, so the opener is faulty.

Every residential garage door opener sold in the United States since 1993 has to carry an entrance protection system, which in practice means the two photo eyes mounted about six inches off the floor on either side of the opening. They watch for an unbroken infrared beam. A bicycle wheel, a bag of compost, a cobweb, a knocked bracket or direct afternoon sun falling on the receiving eye will all break or wash out that beam, and the opener does exactly what it is designed to do and sends the door back up.

What to do: Look at the two small lights near the floor. One steady and one flickering, or one dark, means alignment. Clear the path, wipe both lenses, and straighten the brackets by hand.

One opener is much like another, so fit whatever is in stock.

Openers are rated by duty cycle as well as horsepower. A residential unit is designed for intermittent use with cooling time between cycles. Put one on a door that runs twenty times an hour and the motor overheats and the gearbox wears out early. A continuous duty operator costs more up front and is the only thing that survives that pattern.

What to do: Count the cycles in a busy hour. Anything above about eight to ten is outside what a residential opener is built for.

How this varies across the metroplex

  • Openers built before 1993 predate the federal requirement for photo eye entrapment protection, so the only reversal mechanism is a mechanical force setting that drifts as the door ages. That gap cannot be closed by replacing a board or a gear. Where a garage still runs one of these units, the safety question is answered by replacement rather than repair.
  • Remotes made before rolling code encryption send the same fixed signal every press, and on older units that code is set by DIP switches inside the head. Openers of mixed vintage in one area often mean some doors still answer a code that has not changed in decades. Rolling code models generate a new value on each use.
  • A current opener still needs its safety reverse checked, because the electronics do not compensate for a door that has gone out of balance. The standard test lays a solid object flat on the floor under the door, and the unit should reverse on contact. Photo eyes cover the beam path only, and they read nothing about downward force.
  • Chain drive openers transmit motor and chain noise into the structure through the rail and the ceiling mounts. Where a garage shares a wall or a floor with a bedroom, a belt drive on a DC motor runs quieter, and isolating the rail hangers from the joists cuts the rest. Screw drive units sit between the two on noise.
  • A trolley opener needs clear ceiling space above the door for the rail and the header bracket. Garages with ductwork or storage overhead often cannot take one. A wall mount jackshaft opener bolts beside the torsion shaft and drives it directly, leaving the ceiling open. It requires a torsion spring system rather than extension springs.
  • High lift conversions raise the horizontal track well above the door opening, which puts the trolley rail out of reach of a standard ceiling mounted opener. A jackshaft unit mounted on the torsion shaft drives the door through the same spring assembly and keeps the raised track clear. Cable drum sizing has to match the added lift height.
  • An opener in a rental or multi household garage may cycle many times a day, which reaches its design life in a fraction of the calendar years a single family pattern would take. Wear shows up in the drive gear and the sprocket bushing before the motor itself fails. Cycle count, not age, is the useful measure of remaining life.
  • Wood overlay doors carry a cladding layer over a steel or wood frame, so they weigh substantially more than the plain steel door of the same size. A half horsepower opener sized for a light door will run hot and strip its gear. Motor rating has to follow the actual weight, and the springs have to be balanced for it first.

Coverage

Openers across the metroplex

Pick a city for what the door population there means for this job.

Get a price

Tell us what the door is doing

Describe what the door is doing and somebody will call you back. The estimate on site is free.

(469) 281-7750

A person answers 7am to 11pm.

The noise it makes and when it started narrows the cause more than you would think.

Door stuck open or will not close? Call (469) 281-7750 rather than waiting on a reply.

Questions

Garage door opener repair and installation, asked and answered

What does garage door opener repair and installation cost?

A sensor alignment or limit adjustment is at the bottom of the range. A new belt-drive or wall-mount opener installed is at the top. Typical Dallas Fort Worth market range for this work. It is not a quote. The on site estimate is free and that is the number that counts.

How long does garage door opener repair and installation take?

Repairs run about an hour, a full replacement two to three. The most common opener repairs are stripped drive gears, failed logic boards, misaligned safety sensors and travel limits that have drifted out of adjustment.

Is the work guaranteed?

Parts and labour carry a 5 year warranty. The price is agreed before any work starts, and the on site estimate is free.

Where do you cover?

32 cities across the Dallas Fort Worth metroplex, worked from Coppell. Dallas, Tarrant, Denton and Collin Counties.

Does it change depending on the door?

Openers built before 1993 predate the federal requirement for photo eye entrapment protection, so the only reversal mechanism is a mechanical force setting that drifts as the door ages. That gap cannot be closed by replacing a board or a gear. Where a garage still runs one of these units, the safety question is answered by replacement rather than repair. Remotes made before rolling code encryption send the same fixed signal every press, and on older units that code is set by DIP switches inside the head. Openers of mixed vintage in one area often mean some doors still answer a code that has not changed in decades. Rolling code models generate a new value on each use.

Get it fixed

Need garage door opener repair and installation?

Tell us what the door is doing. The estimate on site is free.

(469) 281-7750 Request a callback
Call (469) 281-7750